IN THE quiet corners of Bangladesh, where the rhythmic clatter of looms once echoed through village lanes and along riverbanks, silence is spreading. The handloom sector — an industry that for centuries wove the cultural fabric of the nation — is now rapidly unravelling. Once celebrated as the backbone of rural artistry and self-sufficiency, it today stands endangered by industrialisation, neglect, and economic disparity.
The decline is both stark and alarming. In 1990, Bangladesh had 212,421 functioning looms. By 2018, that number had fallen to 116,000 — a 45 per cent drop in less than three decades. Meanwhile, the artisan workforce has shrunk from over one million to around 300,000. The rise of mechanised powerlooms — offering faster, cheaper production — has hastened this downfall. But while powerlooms increase quantity, they sacrifice the artistry, community, and cultural pride that traditional handlooms represent.
In Araihazar, Narayanganj — once a flourishing centre of textile craftsmanship — the impact is palpable. From nearly 40,000 active looms, only a fraction remain. Villages such as Taatipara, Shrinibasdi, Khirdasadi, and Jangalia — once vibrant with the songs of the shuttle — are now marked by shuttered workshops and idle frames. Weavers, unable to bear the soaring costs of yarn, dyes, and chemicals, have abandoned the craft. Some have moved to powerloom factories, while others — particularly older artisans and women — have been left with no viable alternatives.
In Baburhat Market, Shekherchar, Narsingdi — once a hive of activity — the sound of handlooms is fast fading. Villages like Ramchandradi, where generations mastered the art of weaving, now stand silent. Skilled artisans, custodians of ancestral knowledge, are walking away as production costs surpass stagnant market returns.
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Weaving livelihoods, not just cloth
THE handloom industry remains Bangladesh’s largest cottage sector and the second-largest source of rural employment after agriculture. It directly employs over 1.5 million people — spinners, dyers, weavers and embroiderers — and supports more than 500,000 others through indirect jobs. Together, they operate over 300,000 looms and produce nearly 620 million metres of fabric annually, contributing over Tk 10 billion to the economy.
Women comprise nearly half of this workforce. Often working behind the scenes in family-run operations, they play vital roles in yarn preparation, dyeing, spinning, and loom assistance. Yet their labour remains largely invisible — unrecognised in economic statistics and undervalued in social discourse. This marginalisation not only entrenches gender inequality but also excludes women from the policy and development programmes designed to revitalise the sector.
A ‘handloom’, by legal and academic definition, is a loom that operates without electricity — powered solely by human hands and feet. The weaver uses foot pedals to separate the warp threads while inserting the weft by hand, a process requiring immense coordination and skill. These wooden and iron machines are more than tools; they are symbols of Bangladesh’s heritage and resilience.
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A glorious heritage under threat
HANDLOOM weaving in Bengal dates back centuries. Renowned travellers like Hiuen Tsang and Ibn Battuta documented the region’s mastery of textile production. Dhaka’s famed muslin — once considered finer than air — was globally prized. In 1787 alone, muslin exports exceeded Rs 5 million.
Though colonial policies decimated indigenous industries, the handloom survived. In the post-independence period, regions such as Sirajganj, Tangail, Pabna, Kushtia and Narsingdi emerged as handwoven strongholds. Each district preserves its own textile identity — Jamdani from Narayanganj, Tangail cotton saris, Rajshahi silk, Khadi from Cumilla, and Monipuri handlooms from Sylhet. These are more than garments; they are cultural testaments.
Yet this rich tradition faces existential threats. Industrialisation and the growth of the construction sector have diverted workers away from handloom-centric livelihoods towards more profitable, socially valued occupations. In many areas, the artisan population has plummeted.
Trade barriers with India further exacerbate the situation, frustrating artisans seeking regional markets. While Nepal and Bhutan may offer promising demand, building robust export networks remains a challenge.
Nonetheless, the tradition of handloom weaving endures as a vital strand in the tapestry of Bangladesh’s identity.
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Structural and systemic challenges
PERHAPS the most urgent challenge is the market disruption caused by the rapid expansion of powerlooms and the influx of cheap synthetic imports. Powerlooms can produce fabric at a fraction of the time and cost, allowing traders to undercut traditional weavers. Meanwhile, imports from countries such as China and India saturate local markets, further diminishing demand for handloom goods. Many artisans, unable to sell their products, are thus disincentivised to continue.
Rising input costs pose another serious hurdle. Yarn, dyes and chemicals have become increasingly expensive. Small-scale weavers, without direct access to wholesale markets, often buy at retail rates — slashing already slim profit margins. In the absence of government subsidies or regulated supply chains, many artisans fall prey to exploitative middlemen.
The lack of affordable capital and outdated equipment has further accelerated the sector’s decline. Traditional looms, often passed down through generations, are inefficient and worn. Access to credit for upgrades is extremely limited. A 2003 survey found that nearly 80 per cent of inactive handloom units cited lack of capital as their reason for closure. With limited access to formal credit, many artisans resort to high-interest informal loans, perpetuating cycles of debt and poverty.
Inadequate training and managerial skills compound the crisis. Most weavers and unit owners have little formal education or business training. As a result, mismanagement, low-quality production, and lack of innovation prevail. The absence of structured design training also hinders their ability to adapt to shifting market trends.
A weak marketing infrastructure adds to the burden. Handloom products are primarily sold in local markets or through informal networks. Few weavers access national or global platforms where they could earn fairer prices. The lack of branding, certification, or GI tagging means these products often fail to stand out or command deserved value.
Government support remains inconsistent. While legal frameworks exist, public policy heavily favours mechanised production. Incentives such as tax relief and export assistance are tailored towards large-scale units. Handloom-specific schemes are sporadic, underfunded, or mired in bureaucracy. Many weavers are unaware of existing programmes or unable to navigate complex application procedures.
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Loom worker’s plight
HANDLOOM workers face physically demanding conditions and meagre wages. A traditional weaver earns around Tk 4,590 per month, while those in powerloom factories earn approximately Tk 7,200 — both well below a living wage. The work is gruellingly repetitive and often involves long hours in cramped, poorly lit spaces.
Women and older artisans face additional barriers. The strength required to operate looms makes it difficult for older individuals to continue unaided. Women, many of whom are unpaid or informally employed, lack social protections such as pensions, healthcare, or maternity benefits.
Low education levels prevent workers from exploring alternative livelihoods or advocating for themselves. Living standards are poor; only half of weaving households surveyed have access to hygienic sanitation. Children frequently drop out of school to help with labour or migrate in search of survival.
Recognising women’s labour, registering them formally, and involving them in cooperative leadership could transform this hidden workforce into an empowered economic force.
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Policy pathways to revival
REVIVING this sector requires targeted, inclusive policy interventions. The government must prioritise investment in affordable, appropriate technology for small-scale weavers. Subsidised lightweight or improved pedal-powered looms could boost productivity while preserving traditional skills. Loan disbursement should be streamlined, with capped interest rates and access timed to peak production seasons.
Tax reductions on essential materials — yarn, dyes and chemicals — are crucial. Publicly monitored procurement centres could provide artisans with fair-priced inputs, reducing reliance on exploitative intermediaries. A price stabilisation mechanism, akin to those used in agriculture, could cushion artisans from volatile markets.
Comprehensive training in design, quality control, and market analysis is essential. Partnerships with universities, NGOs, or cultural institutions can bring global expertise to rural weavers. Training in contemporary fashion trends and consumer preferences would enhance competitiveness.
Marketing infrastructure must be modernised. Government-backed e-commerce platforms, trade fairs and branding campaigns could connect rural weavers to wider markets. GI tagging and quality certification would bolster recognition and value.
Export policies should favour handloom goods. Bilateral agreements with India, Nepal and Bhutan, where there is cultural demand, could create sustainable revenue streams. Dedicated handloom export zones with tax relief and logistical support could bolster international sales.
Strengthening cooperatives is equally vital. Well-managed, democratic cooperatives can negotiate fair prices, ensure quality, and provide social safety nets. Training leaders in modern business practices and including them in policy dialogues would enhance their effectiveness.
Gender equity must also be prioritised. Mapping the roles of women across the value chain, formally recognising their labour, and integrating them into training and decision-making structures would benefit entire communities.
Finally, investment in rural infrastructure — electricity, roads, clean water, and sanitation—would not only enhance productivity but improve quality of life. A national minimum wage and inclusion in safety net programmes, including healthcare, education, and pensions, are essential to ensure dignity and sustainability for all handloom workers.
Bangladesh’s handloom industry is not merely an economic sector; it is a living, breathing testament to the nation’s history, creativity, and endurance. It holds the stories of rural women, the legacy of master artisans, and the collective pride of a people who have always woven their spirit into thread.
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Nafew Sajed Joy is a writer and researcher.
