Nearly all of Bangladesh's smaller ethnic communities are deeply intertwined with nature and distinguished for their unique lifestyles and cultures, and it is equally clear that they offer enticing and exotic cuisines.
Whether in the three hill districts of Rangamati, Khagrachari, and Bandarban or the flatlands of Madhupur and Mymensingh, thousands of tourists converge on these regions during the holiday seasons each year.
They come not only to revel in the natural beauty but also to savour the distinctive flavours of diverse ethnic cuisines.
Even within Dhaka, one can now indulge in these ethnic delights, courtesy of culinary ventures that have emerged over the past few years.
Dhaka proudly hosts a handful of ethnic restaurants that serve delectable dishes representing the Chakma, Marma, and Garo ethnic communities from the hill districts of Chattogram and the plains. These eateries are steadily gaining popularity among Bengali customers for their one of a kind cuisine.
During weekends, these restaurants transform into bustling hubs, attracting families, students, and individuals from various ethnic backgrounds, all converging to relish generous portions of freshly sourced hill cuisine.
Hebaang, the most renowned ethnic restaurant, had its beginnings in 2016 when four sisters, Biply Chakma, Swasti Chakma, Priyanka Chakma, and Suchinta Chakma, initiated it as an online trial venture.
In 2019, they took the leap by opening their inaugural outlet in Kazipara, Mirpur, followed by the recent launch of their second branch in Mohammadpur in August.
Suchinta Chakma explained that the inspiration for Hebaang stemmed from their practice of serving Chakma dishes to many Bengali friends who repeatedly requested these delightful treats.
She shared, 鈥極ur target customers were those who desired to savour hillside cuisine but couldn't make the trip there. We offer hillside delicacies at Hebaang, especially for them.鈥�
Biply Chakma revealed that the name 'Hebaang' is, in fact, the most famous dish among the Chakma people. It can be prepared with various meats, dried fish, and features minimal oil and spices.
Suchinta Chakma highlighted some of the restaurant's most popular dishes, including 'Bamboo Chicken'鈥攃hicken cooked inside bamboo stems鈥攁nd a variety of Bhortas, which have garnered a dedicated following among their customers.
Another eatery Jaba was born out of the aspiration to promote the diverse and flavoursome traditional cuisine of the Garo culture.
In addition to his regular eight-hour job at a private office, Sumon Nongmin embarked on a culinary journey by opening a Garo cuisine restaurant named Jaba in 2019, which translates to 鈥榗urry鈥�. His goal was to showcase his culture on a broader scale.
Sumon expressed his motivation, saying, 鈥業 always wanted to contribute to the preservation of my culture. Recognising that food plays a pivotal role in any culture, I decided to open a restaurant. I am hopeful about launching a second outlet in the near future.鈥�
The restaurant's menu boasts a variety of dishes, and two of the most sought-after items are the oil and spice-free 鈥楥hicken Goppa鈥� and fish cooked in banana leaves, which have become favourites among customers.
Originally established as Cht Express in 2018, Cht Culinary underwent a transformation in 2022 when Ripu Chakma launched it in the Kazipara area of Mirpur. Dipro Chakma, responsible for managing the restaurant, shared the restaurant's journey.
Dipro explained that Cht Culinary was founded with the vision of introducing Chakma cuisine to the wider community and offering an authentic ethnic dining experience.
鈥榃e prepare our dishes instantly in this kitchen and strive to provide our customers with food that is as authentic as possible. Many of our customers even opt for home delivery services, including those from old Dhaka,鈥� he added.
Among the restaurant's offerings, Bamboo Chicken remains a favourite, but another crowd-pleaser is 鈥楳undi,鈥� a rice noodle dish that originates from the Marma/Rakhine tradition. Customers have embraced this dish for its unique flavours and cultural significance.
Food enthusiasts who frequent these restaurants are consistently delighted with the cuisine. Ramisha, while savouring her meals at Hebaang, praised the food for its healthiness, noting its minimal use of oil and spices.
She added, 鈥楾he diversity and uniqueness in the cuisine will definitely bring me back, and I plan to recommend this place to my friends.鈥�
Oliur Rahman described Jaba as his comfort zone and highlighted its unique ability to foster a community of Garo food enthusiasts.
He raved about the welcoming hog plum juice, spicy crab curry, and the Binni Pitha (Binni rice cake cooked in banana leaves), finding Jaba to be thoroughly fulfilling.
Sayrat Salekin appreciated the cosy ambience of the restaurant, noting the lively atmosphere with tables bustling at varying tempos and intensities, which added to the overall enjoyment. Sayrat particularly favoured Hebaang's Shimul Phool Bhaji, Bacchuri, Loitta fry, and Bamboo Chicken for their unique and robust flavours, all prepared with minimal oil and spices compared to what is commonly found.
Tufan Chakma, a regular customer at Hebaang, expressed deep affection and satisfaction for every dish served at the restaurant.
As a Jahangirnagar University student originally from Khagrachari, he emphasised how Hebaang feels like home to him, offering comfort food reminiscent of his mother's cooking. He added that when university meals become monotonous, he rushes to Hebaang to satisfy his cravings.
These establishments not only provide exceptional dining experiences but also support and promote ethnic communities from various parts of the country.
They source ingredients and supplies directly from CHT, Mymensingh, and other regions.
In the midst of Dhaka's materialistic hustle and bustle, these restaurants offer a breath of fresh air with their traditional paintings, ethnic wall-hangings, and various handicraft art.
For instance, both Hebaang outlets are adorned with a 'Jum Ghor,' a small hut used during 'Jum' cultivation, as well as Daba, a traditional smoking kit made from bamboo, among other culturally significant decor.
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