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Among Bangladesh’s cherished traditional sweets, Cumilla’s Rasmalai holds a special place, not only in the hearts of the people but also in the nation’s identity. 

Originating from a small enterprise in the village of Manoharpur, Cumilla, this delectable dessert has transcended regional boundaries, becoming a symbol of Bengali cultural heritage worldwide.

However, the rich history of Rasmalai is now intertwined with a growing concern over counterfeiting, substandard production and the risk of losing its traditional essence. 

Experts and historians trace the origins of Rasmalai to the milk-based ‘Khirbhog’ produced by the Ghosh community in Cumilla. 

The first major step towards popularizing Rasmalai occurred in 1930, when a sweet shop called ‘Matribhandar’ was established in Manoharpur, laying the foundation for what would become one of the most beloved sweets of the country. 

While the exact identity of the founder remains debated, many sources agree that two brothers, Khanindra Sen and Manindra Sen, played a crucial role in establishing this enterprise. 

Local landlord Indubhushan Dutta is said to have provided the land for their venture. 

At the time, ‘Khirbhog’ was a staple food for the Ghosh community. By mixing ‘chana’ (curdled milk solids) and a little bit of wheat flour, the brothers created soft balls, which were immersed into the ‘kheer’ (thickened milk) to form the very first Rasmalai. 

This innovative sweet quickly became a favourite among locals.

In 1950, the establishment of ‘Cumilla Mishti Bhandar’ marked another milestone in the region’s sweet-making legacy.

Alongside this, ‘Bhagwati Peda Bhandar’ and ‘Shital Bhandar’ further enriched the dessert culture of Cumilla.

However, it was Matribhandar’s Rasmalai that catapulted Cumilla to national fame, turning the dessert into a household name.

Even before the country’s independence, Cumilla’s Rasmalai was an essential part of state functions, often served to foreign dignitaries and national leaders at Bangabhaban and other official events.

Just as the Chamcham of Porabari, Kachagolla of Natore and doi of Bogura became iconic, Rasmalai too was firmly established as part of Bangladesh’s rich culinary tradition.

The authentic Cumilla Rasmalai is crafted from pure cow’s milk. A single maund (approximately 40 kilograms) of milk is boiled to make thick kheer, which is then combined with chana and a small amount of wheat flour.

Small balls are then soaked in this milk mixture, creating a rich and creamy texture. From a single maund of milk, a maximum of 13-14 kilograms of Rasmalai is produced.

The current owners of Matribhandar emphasize that the success of their business lies in their commitment to quality and ethics.

The shop produces Rasmalai in limited quantities each day, ensuring that only fresh products reach customers.

They do not engage in bulk sales or wholesale distribution. Unfortunately, this high standard has also led to the rise of counterfeit products. 

The proliferation of fake Rasmalai under the name of ‘Matribhandar’ is a significant issue. In the Alekharchar area of the Dhaka-Chattogram highway alone, more than 36 establishments are selling counterfeit versions, with the number exceeding a hundred across the entire highway and its surrounding areas. 

Many of these shops add words like ‘Adi,’ ‘New,’ ‘Famous,’ ‘Showroom,’ and ‘Sweets Limited’ to their names to mislead customers. 

Although the owners of these shops claim to be licensed, researchers and local experts argue that this is an exploitation of Cumilla’s culinary tradition. 

Furthermore, these counterfeiters often adulterate their products, using powdered milk and excessive flour to produce larger quantities of Rasmalai. This results in a significant loss of both taste and quality.

Rasmalai is more than just a sweet-it’s a living testament to Cumilla’s history and culture. Preserving its authenticity is crucial to maintaining the region’s rich heritage.

Matribhandar’s Rasmalai is not only a business product but also an invaluable cultural asset that symbolises Bengali identity.

Recently, Cumilla’s Rasmalai has been awarded Geographical Indication (GI) status, granting it recognition as a protected product. 

In order to preserve the integrity of this iconic sweet, experts stress the need for government intervention and legal protections. 

This would help distinguish genuine Rasmalai from its imitations and solidify Cumilla’s position in the global market. 

Moreover, there is an urgent need for continuous monitoring and awareness campaigns to prevent adulteration in the production process.

Despite the challenges posed by counterfeiting, adulteration and business competition, Cumilla’s Rasmalai continues to hold a special place in the hearts of people. 

The dessert is now reaching expatriate Bengalis across the globe, with many restaurant owners abroad using it as a brand identity.

This expanding global reach presents a significant opportunity for Cumilla’s Rasmalai to establish itself as a premium brand internationally.

The tradition of Rasmalai is not only the pride of Cumilla but also of Bangladesh. With the right measures, this beloved sweet can become a true symbol of the country’s culinary identity in the international market, further cementing its rich cultural legacy.